UMPRUM will dress into Liběna Rochová's new academic gowns.
Sculpture, dignity, generosity, nobility, respect for the ceremony, and at the same time functionality and simplicity. This is how the academic gowns that will be worn by the university community of the Academy of Arts, Architecture, and Design in Prague (UMPRUM) can be described. Their creator prof. Liběna Rochová is a clothing designer and is also the head of the Studio of Fashion and Footwear Design of UMPRUM.
The original simple black gowns, which served at UMPRUM for decades, were designed by Zdeněka Bauerová, a fashion designer and emeritus professor at the school. They looked like painters' aprons "But time moves forward, our school is changing dynamically and, in addition to various new qualities, we would like a new image, corresponding with our future ambitions oriented towards being an art school. That's why we decided to change the design of our academic gowns. The new gowns, designed by Professor Liběna Rochová, clearly belong to the rank of "high fashion", they look more dignified and their inventive form is much more individualized compared to the previous design. I think that they will clearly express UMPRUM's current spirit and correspond well with the formal qualities of its new building in Mikulandská Street ", as Jindřich Vybíral the Rector of UMPRUM explains the decision to change academic gowns.
Liběna Rochová was without a doubt the best choice for designing academic gowns. As Liběna admits, she likes ceremonies and the attire associated with them. The designs were preceded by detailed research. She also applied her experience in designing gowns for the Constitutional Court of the Czech Republic. The new collection embodies dignity, generosity, and nobility expressed by wide shoulders with deep folds and a high neck collar, which subtly covers the clothes under the gown. “I designed the new gowns to be functional, made of high-quality fabric, lightweight wool with polyester, easy to maintain, and comfortable to wear even on hot summer days when students are graduating. I placed great emphasis on quality and precise craftsmanship ", as Liběna Rochová describes her design choices. Each gown is sewn from 7.5 meters of fabric, the sleeves and folds are lined and taped to maintain flowing fabric and enhance the feeling of dignity during movement when walking and moving the hands. For the gowns, she chose a dark blue color, with an exception for the rector's and bedel's gown. The rector's gown is a royal blue color similar to the school's logo and is made of a higher weight solid cotton to support a sculptural appearance while the bedel's gown is red. Both gowns were tailor-made bespoke creations. All gowns were made by ILLA & Partners in ready-made sizes for each wearer, with subsequent adjustments during fitting.
The gowns also include new headwear. The school management has a collection designed and created by Sofya Samareva, a graduate of the UMPRUM Studio of Fashion and Footwear Design. Round berets with a geometric end intended for teachers were designed by Liběna Rochová and were produced free of charge for the school by the Czech company TONAK.
"We produced this specific geometric shape of a felt beret for the first time at TONAK, but our technologists and designers managed to conquer the challenge. Behind the creation are 150 production operations, 80 of which are exclusively manual, such as the process of forming the hats into linden wood molds, which were specially produced for the berets by our modelers. During the production process, we also placed great emphasis on waste-free and sustainable production. The production of traditional TONAK hats can be considered an art and our hats, caps, and berets with proper maintenance can be used for generations. We take our hats off to TONAK for the new gowns and berets made for university professors ", says Klára Šugárková marketing manager of TONAK, which is celebrating 222 years of its existence this year, about the cooperation.
The gowns should have their premiere at the beginning of the summer during the graduations of new school graduates. Teachers are excited without exception, as Liběna Rochová confirms her experience: "I am very pleased with how warmly the new gowns were received by the teaching staff. I very much appreciate the fact that without exception, I have only received positive feedback from my colleagues, renowned designers, and artists. " Now we only have to wait for graduation, when the gowns will have their big premiere.
A big thank you to our partners:
TONAK a.s., Sofia Samareva, Nová Mosilana, a.s., ILLA & Partners s.r.o.
Thanks also go to the secretaries of UMPRUM for their help in coordinating gown fittings.